Close

DIY C10 Short Bed Conversion Guide

Kevin Whipps . April 02, 2019 . C10 Builders Guide
Save ArticleLogin to save it

Cutting Down C10 ’67-’72 Short Bed Conversion in Right Way

If you’re in the market for a new C-10, you’re going to hit a harsh reality: Short beds ain’t cheap. If you find one that is, it might have a shotgun hole through the headliner, or maybe it’s missing the bed entirely. Either way, if you’re looking for a good deal, you might want to consider a long bed. After all, you can convert C10 into short bed.

Kyle at Metalox Fab has made his living doing just that for loyal customers from all across North America for the past few years. The resulting beds have a tiny scar down the front and back, and sometimes not even that. He knows these trucks so well that the job is done like a surgeon—clean and perfect.

We were fortunate enough to spend some time with him while he cut down a 1969 Chevrolet C-10 long bed into short bed. By the time he was done a few days later, the truck was not only 20 inches shorter, but it looked a ton better, too.

The truck rolled in with a healthy patina and a whole lot of extra sheetmetal
The truck rolled in with a healthy patina and a whole lot of extra sheetmetal. It also had some heated stock springs, which explains the horrible sag.
Kyle from Metalox Fabrication started removing the bed bolts
After spraying them with rust penetrant, Kyle from Metalox Fabrication started removing the bed bolts.
The tailgate came off next so that they could access the rear part of the bed
The tailgate came off next so that they could access the rear part of the bed.
A few welds at the rear of the bed floor by the stake pockets needed to go
A few welds at the rear of the bed floor by the stake pockets needed to go. A sawzall or angle grinder takes care of them.
The bed floor and sides are bolted together
The bed floor and sides are bolted together, so from here on out it’s just about unbolting the sides.
one bedside is down
And just like that, one bedside is down. The header panel and passenger bedside are next, and they’re all placed on the bed floor for now.
07 Kyle marked out the bedsides for the cuts
07 Kyle marked out the bedsides for the cuts. You need to take 8 inches out of the rear of the bedside and 12 inches out of the front. And that jog in the tape? That’s to compensate for the bodyline that slopes down by the tailgate.
Using a die grinder, Kyle cuts the outer skin on the bedsides
Using a die grinder, Kyle cuts the outer skin on the bedsides.
he tapes and cuts the inside of the bed
Once the outside is cut, he tapes and cuts the inside of the bed.
The bed now needs to be welded back together
The bed now needs to be welded back together, so Kyle places everything using these sheetmetal clamps that provide just the right amount of gap.
Now it’s time to weld everything back together
Now it’s time to weld everything back together. It’s a tedious process, but it needs to be done right, otherwise the metal will need a ton of bodywork. The way Kyle does it, everything turns out perfect.
Using a series of sanding discs, Kyle grinds down the welds
Using a series of sanding discs, Kyle grinds down the welds so they’re flush with the surrounding metal.
The resulting “scars” are ready for some clear coat or body and paint
The resulting “scars” are ready for some clear coat or body and paint. In this case, the owner’s opting for clear.
Moving to the bed floor, Kyl marked out 8 inches from the tailgate side of the bed
Moving to the bed floor, Kyl marked out 8 inches from the tailgate side of the bed.
the floor lines up perfectly with the bedsides once everything is bolted back together
He does the same thing with the square notches next to the stake pockets. This will ensure that the floor lines up perfectly with the bedsides once everything is bolted back together.
Now the floor is cut using a die grinder
Now the floor is cut using a die grinder—Kyle’s favorite tool in the world.
The rear cross rail on the bed floor has been drilled out
The rear cross rail on the bed floor has been drilled out and is now spot welded to the new shorter bed floor.
he hammers it down with an air hammer
To give the edge a perfect look, he hammers it down with an air hammer. The resulting metal looks factory.
Moving to the front of the bed, Kyle marks out 12 inches to remove from the floor, then cuts it off
Moving to the front of the bed, Kyle marks out 12 inches to remove from the floor, then cuts it off.
Kyle locates the rivets on the frame just forward of the rear cab mounts
With the truck on jack stands, Kyle locates the rivets on the frame just forward of the rear cab mounts. Then he uses an air chisel to knock them off.
Kyle marks a spot on the frame where he can remove 12 inches
Using those rivets as a point of reference, Kyle marks a spot on the frame where he can remove 12 inches.
Kyle cuts the frame with a die grinder
Then Kyle cuts the frame with a die grinder.
The rear part of the frame pulls back relatively easily
The rear part of the frame pulls back relatively easily, just like a very large wheelbarrow.
Kyle lops off the remaining 12 inches with a die grinder
With clear access to the frame, Kyle lops off the remaining 12 inches with a die grinder.
the rivets are cut and punched out
The forward-most bed mount won’t be needed anymore, so the rivets are cut and punched out.
Cut the heads of the rivet into an X
The rear cab mount comes off next using the same procedure: Cut the heads of the rivet into an X, then use an air chisel to knock them out.
The new holes for the cab mounts are then measured out 12 inches farther back
The new holes for the cab mounts are then measured out 12 inches farther back.
Mounting up the cab
Mounting up the cab mounts is as easy as drilling some new holes and bolting them up.
Now the frame is moved back into place and welded up nice and tight
Now the frame is moved back into place and welded up nice and tight. It’s not quite done yet, though, there’s more to come.
Kyle measures and cuts eight inches out of the rear
Moving to the back of the frame, Kyle measures and cuts eight inches out of the rear.
The team at TAD Drive Shafts hooked Kyle up by shortening the driveshaft 12 inches in record time
The team at TAD Drive Shafts hooked Kyle up by shortening the driveshaft 12 inches in record time. It turned out great.
Kyle marked and drilled holes in the bed floor for the header panel
Moving back to the bed, Kyle marked and drilled holes in the bed floor for the header panel.
The header panel is bolted to the floor
The header panel is bolted to the floor now using a bed bolt kit sourced locally.
Now it’s time for the bedsides, which get bolted up using that same bed bolt kit
Now it’s time for the bedsides, which get bolted up using that same bed bolt kit.
The tailgate goes on next
The tailgate goes on next.
These fish plates were designed by Kyle to sit on the inside of the c-channel
Remember we said that we weren’t done with the welding yet? These fish plates were designed by Kyle to sit on the inside of the c-channel.
They’re designed to sit right over the seam, then get plug and stitch welded to the frame
They’re designed to sit right over the seam, then get plug and stitch welded to the frame. This will tighten up the joint substantially.
Kyle burns them in, ensuring that the frame is solid as a rock
Kyle burns them in, ensuring that the frame is solid as a rock.
They’re designed to sit right over the seam, then get plug and stitch welded to the frame
They’re designed to sit right over the seam, then get plug and stitch welded to the frame. This will tighten up the joint substantially.

SOURCES

Metalox Fabrication
8615 W. Kelton Lane,
Suite 305
Peoria AZ 85382
@metaloxfab
623-308-1170

TAD Drive Shafts
22010 N. 24th Ave
Phoenix, AZ 85027
623-869-0510
Tadshafts.com


 

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

 

What alternative sources do users recommend for purchasing replacement bedsides?

Recommended Sources for Replacement Bedsides

If you’re in the market for replacement bedsides, you might be wondering where fellow enthusiasts source their parts. Here are some recommended alternatives based on user experiences.

  1. Local Suppliers and Dealers

Many users suggest checking with local auto parts suppliers and dealers. These sources often carry a range of replacement panels and can provide the convenience of immediate pickup, saving you shipping costs and time.

  1. Specialized Auto Body Parts Stores

Specialized auto body parts stores are a frequently mentioned alternative. These retailers typically offer a robust selection of high-quality parts designed for specific vehicle makes and models.

  1. Online Retailers

Several users recommend exploring online retailers. These websites usually feature a wider selection and competitive pricing. Look for retailers with positive reviews and detailed product descriptions to ensure compatibility and quality.

  1. Automotive Swap Meets

Experienced users often find great deals at automotive swap meets. These events provide an opportunity to inspect parts firsthand and sometimes negotiate prices directly with sellers.

  1. Salvage Yards

Another popular suggestion is salvage yards. They can be a goldmine for finding original parts that fit perfectly. Although it might require a bit more effort to find what you need, the authenticity of original parts can be worth it.

  1. Manufacturer Direct

Some recommend buying directly from manufacturers. While potentially more expensive, it ensures that you’re getting parts made to the original specifications. This can be crucial for maintaining the integrity and value of your vehicle.

By considering these sources, you can find the right replacement bedsides that fit your needs and budget. Happy repairing!

 

How do users compare the prices of parts from different suppliers, including shipping costs?

How to Compare Prices of Parts from Different Suppliers, Including Shipping Costs

When evaluating part prices from various suppliers, it’s crucial to adopt a comprehensive approach. Here’s a structured guide to help you make informed decisions:

  1. Initial Price Check

Start by visiting the websites of multiple suppliers to note the listed prices for the same part. Ensure you’re comparing identical specifications to get an accurate comparison.

  • Supplier A: $200
  • Supplier B: $250
  1. Check for Manufacturer Consistency

Investigate if different suppliers are offering parts from the same manufacturer. Sometimes, a price discrepancy arises because one supplier has branded parts while another offers generic ones.

  1. Look for Additional Costs

Suppliers often list attractive prices that don’t include additional costs. Be thorough in checking for:

  • Shipping Fees: These can vary significantly and impact your total spend, especially for heavier or larger parts.
  • Taxes: Factor in any location-specific taxes that may apply.
  1. Freight Shipping Analysis

For large or bulky items, freight shipping is usually mandatory. This can be a substantial part of your total cost. Compare the freight charges:

  • Supplier A: $50 shipping fee
  • Supplier B: $75 shipping fee
  1. Hidden Charges

Some suppliers may have hidden charges such as handling fees. Always read the fine print or contact customer service for clarification.

  1. Total Cost Calculation

Combine the part price with shipping, taxes, and any additional fees to figure out the total cost:

  • Supplier A:
    • Part: $200
    • Shipping: $50
    • Total: $250
  • Supplier B:
    • Part: $250
    • Shipping: $75
    • Total: $325
  1. Value-Added Services and Warranties

Evaluate if the price includes value-added services like extended warranties, customer service quality, or return policies. Sometimes paying slightly more can save money in the long run due to better service or easier returns.

By systematically breaking down all associated costs and comparing them, you can ensure you get the best deal when purchasing parts from different suppliers.

 

What are the experiences of users with LMC replacement bedsides for shortbed conversions?

User Experiences with LMC Replacement Bedsides for Shortbed Conversions

Users have shared a mixed bag of experiences when it comes to using LMC replacement bedsides for shortbed conversions. Here are the key points:

Positive Experiences
  1. High-Quality Metal: One user mentioned that the metal was “nice and solid,” with only minor scuffs on the wheel housing. These were expected to smooth out easily after painting.
  2. Free Shipping: An added benefit was the availability of free freight shipping on orders over $1000, which was a significant cost-saving advantage for heavier parts.
Concerns and Issues
  1. Fitment Issues: Several users highlighted that the alignment of parts, such as front fender wells, often didn’t line up well. This indicates recurring issues with the precision of these parts.
  2. Manufacturer Consistency: It was noted that there are only a few manufacturers producing these parts, and they are often reverse-engineered. This can result in inconsistencies in fit and quality.
  3. Mixed Reviews: The overall sentiment was mixed, with some users experiencing non-fitting components and others having smoother experiences. This inconsistency makes it hard to predict individual outcomes.
Insights from Other Products
  1. OEM Preference: Some users prefer to source original equipment manufacturer (OEM) sheet metal whenever possible. They believe these parts are more reliable in terms of fit and quality.
  2. Third-Party Returns: One user shared an incident where they purchased drip rails that didn’t fit well. They were able to get a refund from the vendor, who acknowledged that only one company made those parts, suggesting a broader issue within the industry.
Summary

While some users report satisfactory experiences with LMC replacement bedsides, highlighting solid metal quality and free shipping incentives, a significant number of users face fitment issues and inconsistent quality. The industry-wide challenge of reverse-engineered parts affects not only LMC but other vendors as well. For those seeking guaranteed fitment and reliability, sourcing OEM parts remains a recommended approach.

By aggregating these insights, it’s clear that potential buyers should weigh the cost benefits against the possible need for adjustments and replacements when choosing LMC replacement bedsides for shortbed conversions.

 

What are the potential issues with the fit of LMC replacement parts?

Potential Issues with the Fit of Replacement Parts

When considering replacement parts for your vehicle, particularly from third-party suppliers, several potential issues with fit can arise. Here’s a closer look:

Misalignment

One of the most common problems reported with replacement parts is misalignment. For instance, parts like fender wells may not line up correctly with the existing structure of your vehicle. This can result in gaps, uneven surfaces, and a non-seamless appearance.

Manufacturing Variabilities

Many replacement parts are reverse-engineered, meaning they’re recreated based on existing parts rather than original manufacturer specifications. This process can introduce minor discrepancies in measurements and design, leading to parts that don’t fit as snugly as they should.

Inconsistent Quality

The quality of replacement parts can be hit or miss. Some manufacturers may produce parts that fit perfectly, while others may not. It’s essential to research and compare different manufacturers, as one brand’s panels might align much better than another’s.

Compatibility Issues

Given that there are only a handful of manufacturers producing these parts, the issue often lies not with the seller but with the parts themselves. These compatibility issues can stem from the materials used, the precision of the engineering, or even the batch production quality.

Tips for Better Fit
  1. Research Brands: Look for reviews and comparisons between different third-party brands. User experiences can provide valuable insights into the fit and quality of specific parts.
  2. Consult Forums: Online forums and communities focused on your specific vehicle model can be a goldmine for recommendations and personal experiences with various replacement parts.
  3. Consider Professional Installation: Sometimes, a professional mechanic can make minor adjustments to ill-fitting parts, improving the overall fit and finish.

By being aware of these potential issues and taking proactive steps, you can mitigate the risks and ensure a smoother experience with your replacement parts.

 

What advice do users offer for those undertaking a shortbed conversion project?

07 Kyle marked out the bedsides for the cuts. You need to take 8 inches out of the rear of the bedside and 12 inches out of the front. And that jog in the tape? That’s to compensate for the bodyline that slopes down by the tailgate.

Using a die grinder, Kyle cuts the outer skin on the bedsides. Once the outside is cut, he tapes and cuts the inside of the bed. The bed now needs to be welded back together, so Kyle places everything using these sheetmetal clamps that provide just the right amount of gap.

Now it’s time to weld everything back together. It’s a tedious process, but it needs to be done right; otherwise, the metal will need a ton of bodywork. The way Kyle does it, everything turns out perfect. Using a series of sanding discs, Kyle grinds down the welds so they’re flush with the surrounding metal.

Practical Tips and Adjustments

It’s an easy procedure; just take your time. One important adjustment to note is with the cab mount relocation. While the template might suggest moving it 11 1/2 inches, it’s more accurate to move it 12 inches. This small correction will save you from potential alignment issues later on.

User Experiences and Recommendations

Many users have shared their experiences with various products used in shortbed conversions. Some have had issues with specific kits, but others have found certain products to be reliable. For instance, one user mentioned purchasing a fleetside header panel that fit perfectly, with all bolt holes lining up correctly and the material being as heavy-gauge as the original.

Final Thoughts

When undertaking a shortbed conversion, attention to detail is paramount. Take your time with each step, from cutting and welding to making necessary adjustments. Listen to advice from those who have gone through the process before, and trust tried-and-tested products to make your project a success.

 

What other parts are involved in a c10 short bed conversion project?

Parts and Costs Involved in a c10 Shortbed Conversion

To give you a better idea of the parts and costs involved in a shortbed conversion, here’s a quick rundown:

  • Shortbed Conversion Kit: Approximately $425
  • Bed Bolt Kit: Around $70
  • Total Cost at LMC with Free Shipping: About $2550 (on orders over $1000)
  • Additional Expense: Potential cost for shortening the front drive shaft

These parts are essential for the project and can be sourced from various suppliers. Keep in mind that the final expenses may vary depending on the specific requirements of your vehicle and the quality of parts you choose.

 

Are there any additional expenses to consider?

The only remaining expense to consider is getting the front drive shaft shortened.

 

What are the costs of individual parts involved in the c10 short bed conversion?

The shortbed conversion kit costs around $425, and the bed bolt kit is priced at $70.

 

What is the total cost of the shortbed conversion project?

The total cost of the shortbed conversion project is approximately $2550.