You just finished your build. Your brand new Betty White has a fresh coat of show-quality paint, her wheels are tucked, and the stance is dialed in. You know, the kind of finish you don’t even want to breathe on, let alone drive behind a gravel truck or on a dirty road.

You’re standing there all happy and proud, but also a bit worried. That’s when your buddy asks you about why you don’t take her out for a spin.

You tell him the truth: “I don’t want to risk rock ships, or her getting all scratched up and dirty on her first drive.”

He advises you to protect the paintwork; that’ll keep her safe.

“Wax?” – you ask.

Your buddy shrugs it off with, “No. Only PPF will do the trick.”

What Does PPF Actually Do And Why PPF Instead Of Other Methods?

PPF is a thick (compared to wax, ceramic coating, and paint sealant) transparent polyurethane film with self-healing properties, designed to be a sacrificial layer that’s supposed to keep the paint underneath safe.

Self-healing means that it regenerates when heat is applied to it. Think of it as plastic melting and going back into its original shape.

So basically, PPF = invisible armor.

Usually, PPF comes in three different thicknesses:

• 6-8 mils: great for daily drivers; offers basic chip/scratch protection.
• 8-10 mils: Most ‘better’ PPF installers use this as standard. This is also the thickness you want on your new truck.
• 10-13+ mils: While thicker means it’s able to absorb more, thicker PPF also means less flexibility; this means three things:
  • Fewer installers.
  • It’ll cost way more.
  • There is a possibility of visible seams on curves and edge lift if not installed correctly.

Usually, you want the 10 mill thickness on your new Betty White or Lucy.

The 13+ mil PPF is great for panels that usually suffer the most damage (e.g., front bumper, lower valance, the front edge of the hood, rock panels, rear fenders, A-pillars, mirror caps).

So, a combination of 10 mil and 13+ mil is best. But for this, you’ll need to find an installer who is skilled enough and willing to do it.

For example, if you found an expert installer for paint protection film in Boston and you have to drive 800 miles to get there, you’re risking damage to your new paint. In such a case, it’s best to pay for a professional vehicle transport service.

This way, you keep your truck safe before you get the PPF installed.

Conclusion

So, to wrap it up (the truck with PPF), wax is shiny, ceramic coatings are corrosion-resistant and hydrophobic, but PPF is the only form of paint protection that can actually take a hit.

And with you spending some serious money on paint and bodywork for your beloved truck, there’s no way you’re not going to show it around.

With PPF, you can, without the worry.

2 Interlinking Opportunities:

From https://www.streettrucksmag.com/how-to-design-a-work-ready-flatbed-that-stays-street-truck-clean/ with anchor layer of paint protection

From https://www.streettrucksmag.com/protect-your-patina-tips-and-tricks-to-retain-your-rust/ with anchor for paint protection