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Freshly Trimmed : Adding Style With Mar-K’s C-10 1967-72 Side Molding

Having the right look is everything. All it takes is the smallest detail to make or break the appearance of your truck. For Ray Greenlee, his ’69 C-10 was already top-notch, but even though the truck looked good, he wanted to take it to the next level with side molding.

While researching products, Ray came across Mar-K Manufacturing. He soon discovered that the company has been around since 1975 and is based in Oklahoma City. Mark-K’s side molding starts as raw aluminum, next it’s rolled out like the factory versions, polished, anodized, and then the black sections are powder-coated. The best part is that this is all done in the USA.

Here's an example of a complete 1967-72 Chevrolet C-10 With Mar-K Side Molding

Raymond is a paint and body specialist at Lewis Milinich Body Shop and knows good quality when he sees it. When he received the side molding kit, he knew Mar-K was serious. Even the shipping box looked very professional with plenty of padding to ensure the parts were well protected. He was also impressed by how easy it was to install the kit. Often, molding from other companies is made overseas and doesn’t fit well. Raymond had no problems attaching the pieces of the kit to his truck. Follow the steps on the next few pages to see for yourself how easily the installation went.

Sources
Lewis Milinich Body Shop
559.582.1741
Facebook.com/Lewis-Milinich-Body-Shop

Mar-K Quality Parts
844.627.5844
Mar-k.com

First thing we did is open the box containing the new molding and lay it all out. This will give you an inventory and a reference point for where each piece will be placed on the truck.

MAR-K maintains stock of many stainless and aluminum mouldings for the 55-59 and 62-72 GM pickups. Most of these mouldings are made in Oklahoma City, USA. Mar-K also offers a wide variety of special clips and fasteners needed to attach the mouldings for 62-72 GM trucks as well as lower body mouldings in woodgrain and black accents for 69-72 GM Fleetsides, Blazers and Suburbans.

1) Jack up the truck, making sure to support it with jack stands. Make sure the truck is level, which is critical to get the molding straight. Remove all four wheels and front inner fender wells to access the fender and bedside molding studs.

2) Remove the driver and passenger door panels to access the inner door.

3) Using masking tape, attach the front and rear wheel-opening moldings into position on the truck. We suggest installing the molding one side at a time.

4) After the molding is properly aligned and securely taped to the wheel opening, drill a 1/8-inch hole in each of the five positions on the inner lip of the wheel opening. Start at the center and move outward.

5) Once the 1/8-inch holes are drilled, install the wheel-opening molding using the provided screws.

6) Next, use ¾-inch masking tape to run a reference line from the front to the rear wheel-opening molding. This tape line is critical, because you’ll use it to reference the molding’s mounting-hole placement.

7) Using masking tape, attach the remaining trim along the tape line, start at the front of the truck and work your way back. Take a step back and look at the molding from several angles to ensure it’s straight and that the reference line is butted up directly to the bottom of the molding.

8) Once you have made any necessary adjustments to the molding and the tape line, remove all of the molding from the truck, leaving only the tape line in place.

9) Starting with the front fender molding, insert the appropriately labeled clips. Place one clip on the front of the wheel opening and two on the rear of the wheel opening. Use a paint stick, if necessary, to push the clips into place. (Do not hammer or force the clips into place.) Make sure to align the rear clip closest to the door with the factory hole in the brace inside of the fender.

10) With the clips in place, align the bottom of the molding with the reference line, and mark the side-to-side placement of the molding studs. Note that this will not be the final hole placement. Next, measure 1 ¼ inches down from the bottom of the factory body line and mark the final holes.

11) Using an 1/8-inch bit, drill a pilot hole in the three marked locations, then drill the final mounting hole using a 3/8-inch bit. We prefer to use a step bit, but a standard drill bit will also work. Now you can do the final installation of the molding using the provided hardware. Be sure all of the molding aligns with the reference tape line before tightening.

12) Install the door molding next. Locate the two outer door-molding clips. Make sure that these are installed as close to each end of the molding as possible. Locate the remaining door clips and divide them evenly along the molding. Follow the same steps that were performed on the fender. Place the molding up to the reference tape line and mark the side-to-side location of each clip.

13) Measure 1 ¼ inches down from the factory body lines and mark the final clip holes. Drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole in each of the final marked locations and follow with a 3/8-inch bit. Install the molding, aligning it with the reference tape line. Repeat this for the rear cab corner pieces.

14) With the fender, door and cab corner complete, move on to the bed. Start by re-installing the rear wheel-opening molding using the attached screws and making sure to align with the reference tape line.

15) Now that the wheel-opening molding is in place, insert the clips into the front and rear bedside molding. Make sure to place the three provided clips evenly along each piece. Follow the previous steps, making sure to measure 1 ¼-inch down from the body line and lining up the molding with the tape line.

Finally after the molding is aligned, reinstall the door panels and inner fender wells folled by the wheels. It’s obvious that this was the final touch this truck needed to make it pop.