This is where we left off last month; with the frame cleaned up, boxed and with a set of CanDo notches welded into place.

We are getting the axle cleaned up and ready to be installed with our weld-on cantilever reverse 4-Link. It’s nicer looking to cut off all the old axle pad brackets that are not going to be used again.

This is the best time to clean it off and get any grease and sand off as well as any messy welds from the factory. A 40-grit flap disc is the best choice to metal-finish everything smoothly. A grinding wheel will leave dips when you grind the round surface, which isn’t too pretty once painted.

You now want the axle set in place. Center the axle under the notch at your desired lowered drive height. Our rule of thumb is placing the axle at the opening of the notch.

Brace the axle in place with a temporary welded gusset from the axle to the frame. Some use upside down U-bolts. We used a couple of pieces of scrap pipe this time.

When deciding were the upper link bars go, first find the center of your X-member.

Using this center mark as a reference, place the upper bars as close to each other as possible on the X-member side, allowing the bars to be angled diagonally towards the outer part of the axle. Make sure the upper bars are not too close where they might interfere with the frame or notch.

If you’re satisfied and everything’s been triple checked then [b]only[/b] tack weld the bars in place. Note: Always go back and keep double-checking that the axle hasn’t moved off its mark throughout the 4-link installation. If anything is off at all, it’s easier to go back and fix something then it is to find out it’s off after you think you’ve finished.

In the meantime Steve is Tig welding a new set of lower bars.

Measure from the flat side of the top axle bracket to the center of the ‘bag bracket. This will give you the distance you’ll want to center your lower bar at, from inside the frame rail.

Once you determine the proper placement of the Llower bar, you can tack weld one onto the axle and the X-member. Make sure nothing moved before and after you tack weld the first bar in place.

Once you’ve done your what seems like 100th double check to make sure that everything is lined up and where you want it to be, then and only then is it okay to weld things up.

We pull the axle out from the frame and weld all of the 4-link brackets. This allows you to rotate the axle so that you can get in a better welding position. Strong welds are the number one priority, but making them look good comes in a close second. Being comfortable when welding is key!

Now reinstall everything, and double check to make sure nothing has moved out of place while welding. This is where you want to pray it’s dead on, because you’ll be calling CanDo for a new set of brackets if its not; not to mention the several hours of cutting and grinding it smooth again.

With the axle jacked all the way up where it’s going to be when laying frame, measure out a 2.9-inch gap between the upper ‘bag bracket and the lower ‘bag bracket. (2.9 inches is a Slam Bag Collaspe, if you’re using Firestones or Airlift go 3 inches.) It’s easiest to temporarily use the ‘bag as an alignment tool. Tack weld the brackets in place, and then pull the ‘bag out before fully welding everything.

Every once in a while Steve will sneak over and IG weld something on the frame. TIG welds are clean, but they are not economical. It takes a lot more time to TIG vs. MIG weld the frame. When it comes to the products CanDo will always TIG weld everything. But usually the MIG is their choice welder for 90 percent of all the frame work.

This upper ‘bag bracket was raised above the frame, and then gusseted, since it was necessary for the truck to lay out on 20s. Usually with 18-inch or smaller wheels the top of the ‘bag bracket would be flush with the top of the frame.

With the Link all set in place, it’s time to give our frame some extra support. CanDo offers a Tubular X-member that comes pre-TIG welded. It’s perfect for between the notches.

In this case we just built the pieces today, so we are assembling the X-member on the truck.

We make sure to get everything level by using a straightedge or long yardstick across the tops of each notch. Once the first side is tacked in place, continue to match up the opposite side.

Once everything is welded top side, we flipped the frame over and finished welding the X-member and the 4-link brackets on the frame. If your truck hasn’t been stripped down to a bare frame, this may not be possible, but in this case we took advantage of the bare frame.

There it is that big ugly factory X-monster that likes to eat up the pavement but holds your truck up from kissing good ol’ Mother Earth. CanDo has the simple fix. Let’s replace it with a smaller, raised X-member.

Terry a.k.a. T-Bag cuts off the factory X-member at both ends.

Once the X-member is off of the frame, use a 40-grit flap disc to metal-finish any remaining pieces of the old X-member off the frame. We want it to be as if it never existed.

Fresh off the TIG table, ready to be installed, is the CanDo tranny X-member.

There’s an obvious difference there. Clean and simple best describes the New CanDo X-member.

Bolt the angled pieces supplied with the kit to each end of the X-member. These pieces will be welded to the frame.

Test fit the X-member for proper fitment.

This won’t be a problem for most of you, since your truck won’t be torn down to the frame, but make sure that your tranny is bolted up, so that you can use it as a jig to line up the X-member.

Use the jack to keep the transmission where it needs to be while you’re mocking up the X-member location.

Temporarily clamp the X-member in place and check to see if it’s level.

Once you’re sure that everything is correctly placed, tack weld it in place, remove the clamps, and double check it again to make sure it’s where it’s supposed to be.

Now weld it up and make it look pretty. We don’t want to see any booger welds or worm welds. Throw down some dimes if you don’t mind.

Once the welds are completed, you’re done. Stay tuned next issue when CanDo shows us how they ‘bag the front of this Toyota and install the latest CanDo tubular A-arms, achieving better ride quality and a lot more travel.